This is kind of a long entry so please bear with it until the end. Or just look at the pictures, I’m okay with that.
This weekend, I went with five friends to visit Akko and Haifa. We all left Thursday evening after class. Half of us left on the 7:20pm bus from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv, walked 10 minutes to the train station with our luggage, got on a 9:10 train to Acco, and finally arrived at our hostel at about 10:45pm. The owner waited up for us to check in and get settled. It was this really cute (somewhat dingy) family-run place. At that point the three of us were completely worn out, but we had to stay awake to explain to the rest of our group how to get to the room. Of course, they didn’t leave Jerusalem until about 10:30pm, so they didn’t get to the hostel until 1am or so. So we had to stay up, which meant not too much sleep for us since we needed to get up early to start touring. In the mean time, we went to this really cute coffee shop/hookah bar. It had a very Middle Eastern feel, with couches, Arabic TV, and everything else.

Friday morning we left the hostel at 9am, hoping to make a 9:30 train. Let me just say now, that did not happen. First we had to pay at the front desk for the night before (which we couldn’t do because the owner had to go visit people) and then Friday night. Then we decided to walk to the train station because my guidebook, which I love and follow word for word, said it was only 2.3km. Of course it didn’t give exact directions so we got them from the front desk. They were really great, except the guy we got them from forgot to mention one crucial turn. So we kept walking straight until we reached train tracks, which was almost helpful because we then just followed them to the station. We missed our train and then just hung out on the platform for half an hour until the next one.
We got into Haifa at 10:30 and our tour was supposed to start at 10:45. We got into the first taxis we saw, accepted their price without bargaining (an absolute no-no), and raced to the Bahai Gardens. The Gardens were absolutely beautiful. They took about 15 years to construct and cost $250 million. The shrine in the center of the gardens was built to house the founder of the Bahai faith about 100 years ago. That was also really gorgeous, but you aren’t permitted to take pictures inside.
Here are some pretty pictures:


They actually built the gardens right over a street.

Looking back up the mountain.


We wanted to go get lunch afterwards somewhere nearby, so we asked a security guard for directions. Again, we got directions part of the way there and then we just sort of had to figure out the rest. We ended up in the German Colony. We actually ate at a restaurant which was recommended by my guidebook. It was this cute outdoor cafe with amazing food, everyone actually agreed that they enjoyed it (which usually doesn’t happen). Of course our lunch took so long that we were again rushing to find cabs and get to the train station. We caught the last train north before the transportation system shut down for Shabbat. We made it back okay, walked back to the Old City, and went directly to the Market there. It was really fun, but quite a bit smellier than the Jerusalem market. There were a lot more fish stalls and a lot less ventilation.
After making sure we had enough food for Shabbat dinner, we all went back to the hostel to collapse. Half of us napped while other people hung out and went to find a synagogue in the new city of Akko. It was a really great nap. I neglected to mention before that one of my friends is the most ridiculous snorer. It actually would have been impressive if we all hadn’t been trying to sleep. So the nap was much-needed. After, we got up and joined a bunch of Young Judea year course kids who were staying in the hostel for dinner. They had their own catered meal, but it was nice to sit near them in the dining hall. Being with them did make me realize how much I’ve grown up from high school though. We found them all a little obnoxious. The real problem was that they were sleeping in the rooms to the right and left of us and the room above us. So we were surrounded by these people who were very loud, stayed up very late, and woke up very early.
Saturday morning we woke up at about 10am (after getting 11 hours of sleep) and started to pack up our stuff. We had to check out but we were able to leave all of our stuff in the hostel. The first thing we did was go up a ramp that was right behind the hostel. It led to the top of the wall and the ramparts where they put some cannons to replicate what it would have looked like when Napoleon tried to conquer the city. (He failed, for all of you keeping track.)
More pretty pictures:
A cemetery outside the walls.

Sitting on a cannon.

Even weeds in Israel are pretty.

The Al-Jazzer Mosque.

After a bit of exploration, we headed over to the tourist office to buy tickets to stuff in Akko. After a brief tourist informational video (which was kind of boring) we went to the citadel where the subterranean crusader city is located. It was kind of cool to see all the stuff, but we had more fun playing in the ruins than just looking. The exit is of course through the Turkish Bazaar. Though we didn’t buy any souvenirs, I did get some delicious fresh-squeezed orange juice. Afterwards we headed over to the art museum (nothing special but it was included in our ticket). Then we went to the Al-Jazzer Mosque. The mosque was absolutely beautiful. It is the third holiest mosque in Israel (although I can’t remember why). The mosque was followed by lunch in a sit-down falafel restaurant with probably the worst service I’ve ever seen. On the other hand, it was delicious and my falafel was incredibly fresh. After lunch we headed over to the Templar Tunnels. These were built by the crusaders to be used as sewers or as an escape during times of war. After the tunnels we walked out to the coast and walked along the walls near Akko’s lighthouse. It was a really beautiful view, and we had fun climbing around the crusader ruins.
Crusader City:

Notice I am short enough to still stand up straight.


Kefiyahs and Kippas on sale at the same stand.

Al-Jazzer Mosque:

Washing station.

Clock with daily prayer times.

Arabic: Women’s prayer section
Hebrew: No entrance to strangers (non-Muslims)
English: Don’t enter

Templar Tunnel:

From the Walls:


A jellyfish that died while we were watching it swim.


This camel was randomly tethered in someone’s backyard.

Children with toy M-16s…just what I want to see.

This clock tower has Arabic numbers on one side.

Afterwards we had a bunch of time to kill before Shabbat ended. We decided to walk to a beach which the guidebook said was 100m away. Of course before we walked 100m along the coast, we reached a gated area. So we tried to walk around it. After seemingly getting lost we asked directions of a security guard and he said it was just another three minute walk to the beach. Of course, the beach turned out to be closed during the winter, so we sat down for a while before walking back to the old city. The day before, we had noticed a little bit of shoreline next to the walls. It said no swimming, but it did have a few nice picnic tables. We sat there and relaxed for about an hour until Shabbat ended. At that point we went back into the city for a quick dinner. Then we raced back to the hostel, quickly called a cab, ran into the train station and pushed our way onto a train that arrived about 2 minutes later. It was the first train running south after Shabbat ended and it was incredibly packed. It’s definitely an experience I would like to avoid. Three of us were forced to stand incredibly close to one another. This wouldn’t be so bad normally, but none of us had showered because the showers in the hostel were actually faucets coming out of the wall in a room with a toilet. So it was slightly unpleasant. After that experience we got to the bus station in Tel Aviv and booked it to our bus, which arrived about three minutes after we did. After a lot of pushing and shoving (which seems to be the Israeli way) we actually all managed to get on the bus and we were able to save seats for everyone. It was a fine ride, but I’m definitely glad to be home.