Last Tuesday was Israel’s Memorial Day, Yom Hazikaron. Because so many Israeli families have experienced losses this is a very meaningful commemoration. The holiday began Tuesday night with a siren at 8pm. My friends and I went to a ceremony at the kotel. We had seats on steps overlooking the kotel plaza and were able to see the ceremony very well. It was amazing to see so many people all in one place, thinking the same thoughts, and feeling the same sadness. The President of Israel, Shimon Peres, and the army chief of staff both spoke at the ceremony. It was nice that I have finally reached a point where I could understand most of what they were saying. Peres’ speech was particularly moving.


Wednesday morning we went to another ceremony, this time at Har Herzl, Israel’s military cemetery. The ceremony began with another sounding of the siren at 11am. This was another amazing experience, though very different from the first. The cemetery was absolutely full of Israelis, foreigners, and Israeli soldiers. Unfortunately we didn’t have a very good view of the actual ceremony, and because we could only hear the speeches through large speakers, we couldn’t really understand much of what was going on. One really neat thing was that before entering the cemetery there were flowers given out to be placed on the graves.
After the ceremony we headed back to the main gates to get a map and then tried to go see some of the graves. We made it to a reflecting pool which was very beautiful, though we didn’t quite understand its significance. We then moved to the area for soldiers killed in the Second Lebanon War of 2006. The area was full of those paying their respects and it was difficult to find an empty grave on which to place our flowers.


Wednesday night was the beginning of Israel’s Independence Day, Yom Ha’atzmaut. My friends and I all headed down to Ben Yehuda Street and Zion Square for the celebrations. There were so many people out and they had closed down Jaffa Street for a huge concert. We spent a bunch of time out on the street and then some time in our friends’ apartment on Ben Yehuda. We stepped outside again to see the laser light show and the fireworks later that night. We then headed down Jaffa and met up with some more friends before going over to another area where they had set up Israeli dancing. It was cool to see so many people doing the same dances, though are group was more into the interpretative, made-up dances. It was a really fun experience.

Thursday was the continuation of Yom Ha’atzmaut. We headed out to a park for a barbecue. It took us a really long time to find the people we were meeting. They turned out to be in sort of a secret spot which was empty except for us and one other group. The barbecue was really, really fun, and we stayed out for about seven hours. Once the sun had begun to set it started to get a little chilly and we decided to go home. Somehow every single picture from the barbecue came out really well, probably because it was such a nice day and we were having so much fun. I’ve included just a couple though.
The rest of the weekend was pretty relaxing. Not much else happened until our class field trip on Sunday. We all met up outside the gate of the dorms at 6am to get picked up by our bus. Because there were only 15 of us total, we were on a minibus, which was fun but also meant that it was impossible to be far away from the annoying people. The purpose of our trip was to go to the Golan and see the strategic nature of Israel’s borders. To get to the Golan we had a pretty long bus ride through the desert between in the Jordan River Valley (between the West Bank and Jordan). The ride would have been relaxing if our Professor hadn’t decided to comment every 5 minutes in a soft voice which required a strain to listen.
Our first stop was a former British police station. It wasn’t very exciting and just showed where a battle had taken place and where kibbutzim were forced to move after the 1948 war. Our second stop was the Island of Peace. It was originally established as a place where Israeli and Jordanian children could play together, but after a shooting in the 1990s the project was abandoned. it was kind of cool though because we could see from that point Israeli and Jordanian flags only about 100m from each other. Our third stop was literally on the side of the road. We stopped right next to the first part of the security fence separating Israel and Jordan. Our professor told us that the fence wasn’t electric, instead it was electronic, and could sense if the fence was broken. Additionally soldiers drove by once a day to check for footprints next to the fence. But we were assured that he chose this place to stop because there were already so many other footprints at that point.
View of Island of Peace

View of Jordan from Israel
Minaret of Mosque which was originally Jordanian but is now technically in Israel
Bridge between Israel and Jordan destroyed in 1948
Our next stop was to a Kibbutz where there was a great overlook of the Kinneret. The point of the stop was to show how the Syrians before 1967 controlled land overlooking and Israeli strip of land on the eastern side of the sea. We could really see their houses very clearly, and it was easy to imagine that with sophisticated equipment it would be easy to target people in their homes. I’m also including a picture of Professor Medzini, doing his thing.
We next drove to a former Syrian bunker. Here we discussed again how prior to 1967 the Syrians could clearly target Israeli homes and fields from their lookout positions. It really showed the strategic nature of Israel’s decisions during the wars. It was also a great depiction of all that we had been learning in class.

We later went to another former Syrian lookout over Israel. Above us on a hill was a Syrian electronics post which was kept completely in tact when the Syrians left in 1967. However when they returned during the 1973 war they disabled all of the electronics. Below us was another view, this time of the disengagement zone in the Golan. From this point we were able to see the command center of the United Nations Disengagement Observer Force.

Our next stop was the Golan Visitors Center. The center was more of a joke than anything. We were first forced to watch a movie which was a “wind, water, and fragrance experience.” We were definitely curious what that could mean. The video turned out to be a complete advertisement for visiting the Golan and wasn’t informative at all. The wind and water happened any time there was wind and water onscreen. They were a little over-excited with each of these, because we ended up getting pretty wet, and then pretty cold when the wind started to blow. The fragrance part was weird, and only came into play when there were flowers on the screen. We then headed to an audio-visual presentation centering on a large topographical map which was on the floor of the room. It seemed like the kind of thing where they just had some cool lighting effects and wanted to find an excuse to use them. At least this presentation was actually informative in terms of the history of the Golan.
Our final stop before lunch was the site of a major tank battle. It turned out that our bus driver had actually been in the battle which the memorial commemorated. Because of this after our professor gave some history of the battle and the area’s strategic importance, our driver told his own personal story. He was in one of three tanks going out to meet and take down Syrian tanks. He was in the actual tank which was “sacrificed” as a diversion for the other two tanks to destroy the Syrian tanks. He was fine in the end and just has some hearing problems. Before you think that he was such a great soldier, how sad that he’s now driving a bus, it’s not exactly the case. He was actually in the army for 30 years, until just four years ago. He was senior enough that he was actually the head of an entire army base. After that he retired to the tourism industry. He said it’s actually very relaxing compared to his job in the army.
For lunch we went to a restaurant next to the Banias Nature Reserve. The Banias is one of the sources of the Jordan River. It was a really gorgeous area, but since it was already 2pm at that point we skipped looking around and went straight to lunch. It was actually pretty cool because we all sat at one table in this little Lebanese restaurant. It was a little awkward because I ended up sitting across from my professor. We didn’t talk for most of the time, I talked with my friends instead, but we did speak a little about Cornell and my studies. Our final stop was at Metula, the northernmost point of Israel. The town actually sort of sticks out into Lebanese territory. By this point in the day it was actually gorgeous out, and it was really interesting to see how close Israel and Lebanese territories are. In fact Israelis are still farming some lands considered to be Lebanese. The town is in a valley surrounded by hills which were the places from which rockets were fired during the Second War in Lebanon in 2006. In the middle of the farmlands in the center of the valley we could see a narrow white strip. This was actually an airstrip when the land was under British control.
We then headed back in the bus to go home. Luckily we all slept most of the way home, and I was actually completely shocked when we stopped after driving for 2 hours for a little break. Then it was just one more hour in the bus and we were finally home. The trip lasted a full 13 hours and we were all completely exhausted, but it was a great trip. We really saw everything that we had been learning about in terms of disengagement agreements and peace treaty negotiations. Now it’s back to work until this weekend, when we’ll be traveling to Eilat and Petra.